British fashion designer Nigel Cabourn passed away a few weeks ago. I learned of the news on Instagram, where his friends and colleagues have been posting touching tributes. News of his death shocked me. Although Nigel was getting up there in age, I've always thought of him as a steady figure who would be around forever, sort of like his designs.
People who have been into menswear for a while will be familiar with his history. In interviews, he recounted how he decided to major in fashion while studying at Northumbria University because he thought some of the women in the department were pretty. Then in 1971, while still a senior at school, he launched his brand Cricket, which later became his eponymous label. Shortly after, Paul Smith — who had just started his own brand — gave Nigel a vintage RAF pilot jacket, which sparked Nigel's lifelong love for vintage.
Over the next 50 years, Nigel built one of the best vintage menswear archives in the world, which, in turn, informed his designs. Some of my favorite pieces from him draw on Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay's ascent of Mount Everest, such as his "Everest parka" made from Ventile, goose down, and sheepskin. I also think he made one of the best duffle coats by leaning into the garment's workwear history. His Aircraft and Canada parkas — made with short, wide bodies and bulbous hip pockets — show that he understood some men are not interested in wearing "flattering" clothes. They want classic designs that make them feel a certain way.
About ten years ago, I met up with my friend Agyesh at a hotel to catch up and talk about his then-new brand, Stoffa. Stoffa's aesthetic is a mix of sophisticated minimalism, drapey Italian tailoring, and Indian craft practices. Agyesh's aesthetic couldn't be further from Nigel's. And yet, while we were chatting at that hotel, we talked about our shared love for Nigel's designs. Agyesh said Nigel made some of the best outerwear around.
As a brand, Nigel Cabourn is still operting, and you can find many of the Everest-inspired pieces on eBay. Despite some of these pieces debuting over 20 years ago, they are eminently wearable today. They've lived through the slim-fit Mad Men craze, Italian style revival, and luxury fashion's co-optation of streetwear. They remain timeless because the clothes are built to last and draw from histories that will always have cultural cachet. To me, Nigel showed what it means to create truly sustainable clothes — clothes that not only physically last but that people love to wear and that remain culturally relevant, regardless of current conversations.
In the last few years, the menswear industry has lost some rather towering figures, such as Mariano Rubinacci, Antonio Panico, and now Nigel Cabourn. What a blessing to have seen these people share their talents while they were here.