Day 4
Started with a sunrise hike! Had breakfast then went to the sauna, where I yapped with some girls from Latvia (yes I had to look up where that is).
There are ten UNESCO listed Byzantine churches in Cyprus and my side quest today was to make it to as many as possible. I drove around villages following signs which felt like a scavenger hunt. Ended up seeing six! The paintings in these churches are absolutely mind blowing I still cannot believe they are from the 12th century. This was a 10/10 side quest. So so beautiful
I made it to Nicosia around dinner time. Veryyy interesting city. More on this later, but as a one-liner history lesson: it’s been a capital city since the 7th century, fast forward to now it’s the only divided capital city (half Greek half Turkish).
Stumbled upon an intriguing bar on the Green Line, ended up having a drink with the owner, Stavros, for an hour. His family were Turkish refugees from the Cyprus conflict but he chose to stay and open his bar on the Greek side many years ago. Only serves brandy sours. Gave me a history lesson on why they’re the national cocktail, and answered all my questions on Nicosia’s modern-day politics. He’s a committed socialist, and enjoyed telling me all the shortcomings of capitalism. Though I disagreed with all of it, he’s the kind of talker I didn’t mind losing an argument to… or maybe I just needed a second brandy sour to really get me going 😃